Sony Str D2010 Manual

This may be a little too specific for most to comment on, but what the hey?So, a relative gifted me an old Sony STR-6800 SD receiver he'd had in his basement for years untold. It's a lovely piece, not a touch of rust on it anywhere that I can find, with lovely wood grain side panels.Superficially, the worst of it is a somewhat spongy and 'sticky' power button that may need tweaked and dead bulbs in the radio 'display.' Unfortunately, once you try running signal through it, the fact that something is wrong under the hood becomes blatantly apparent.

The left channel crackles and comes in and out. It never goes fully silent, but signal succumbs almost completely to noise. There's no 'rhythm' to the fading in and out and doesn't seem to improve too much the longer the receiver is in action.Under normal circumstances, I'd probably say this is beyond my competence and the lack of repair shops in my area sort of precludes an easy option for taking it to be fixed.So, here's my question: I know I need a phono pre-amp upgrade for my rig and I was sorely tempted to use this receiver as a pass-through (think a really large outboard pre-amp) just because it looks awesome on the shelf. IF it can be fixed, I'd like to do so because I hate the idea of this being scrapped out.

Problem is, if I can get an Emotiva outboard pre-amp for $150, it sets my acceptable price point for fixing this older receiver in the $100 or less bracket in order for it to be worth my while.Am I setting my sights too high? Would it not even be worth my time to salvage this piece?

Or, am I just looking in the wrong places for information on how to get this beast up and running? Click to expand.I'm an alright hand with a soldering iron, but the lack of information on diagnosing and servicing solid state amps is a serious stumbling block for me.

I described the issue to someone who used to work on stereo equipment and he was thinking it was something isolated in the output phase. I know, in theory, what he's talking about, but translating that to, 'These are the parts that need checked and/or replaced' is another leap entirely. The problem occurs whether I'm using a line out or running the speakers directly from the receiver itself and it doesn't matter if I'm using the AUX in or one of the phono inputs.And yes, there is a part of me that feels I've gone 'round the bend to even want to keep a 36lb monster around strictly for record player preamplification.

Click to expand.You might find a blown fuse inside. Maybe it was just driven too hard, clipped, and blew a fuse. A 40W/channel amp may have been pushed too far. I always look at high-current devices, power regulating transistors, solid state bridge rectifiers and so on, to see if the solder there is bad. Heating and cooling causes more expansion/contraction in those areas and the solder can become crystallized (cold solder). Sometimes you can see it clearly.

I re-flow the solder on those areas often on vintage gear. Also, if there are card-edge connectors or other connectors where there is leverage, re-flow those too.

Phase Linear 4000 preamps (and the 1000) of that era were horrib;e for connector problems, all solder flexing problems. You might find a blown fuse inside. Maybe it was just driven too hard, clipped, and blew a fuse. A 40W/channel amp may have been pushed too far.

I always look at high-current devices, power regulating transistors, solid state bridge rectifiers and so on, to see if the solder there is bad. Heating and cooling causes more expansion/contraction in those areas and the solder can become crystallized (cold solder). Sometimes you can see it clearly. I re-flow the solder on those areas often on vintage gear. Also, if there are card-edge connectors or other connectors where there is leverage, re-flow those too.

Phase Linear 4000 preamps (and the 1000) of that era were horrib;e for connector problems, all solder flexing problems. It could be anything. Does the problem happen if you lift one edge of the unit and let it drop (an inch or so)? Meaning, if it's a connector or bad solder or a cracked board, giving it a jolt should make the crackle come or go due to the mechanical jolt. If it is a bad cap, that may not respond much to manhandling (although it may). I had a Dynaco 120 do what you describe and the problem was a power transistor that was not tightened down on a heat sink-losing ground intermittently.

Use a small stick, nonconductive, and lean on a few components inside carefully. Budge the larger electrolytics a bit, with care. See what you find.Based on what you say, my guess is an electrolytic. If the tape out signal is clean, then that narrows it to the output stage as likely. It could be anything. Does the problem happen if you lift one edge of the unit and let it drop (an inch or so)?

Meaning, if it's a connector or bad solder or a cracked board, giving it a jolt should make the crackle come or go due to the mechanical jolt. If it is a bad cap, that may not respond much to manhandling (although it may). I had a Dynaco 120 do what you describe and the problem was a power transistor that was not tightened down on a heat sink-losing ground intermittently. Use a small stick, nonconductive, and lean on a few components inside carefully. Budge the larger electrolytics a bit, with care.

See what you find.Based on what you say, my guess is an electrolytic. If the tape out signal is clean, then that narrows it to the output stage as likely. I picked up a 70s era Kenwood receiver at thrift last year and had similar problems with the audio output. Similar to the recommendation above, I removed the hood and gave the pots and switches a Deoxit and fader lube treatment based on some threads over on audiokarma. It's been playing with no problems since. I had a couple of bulbs out as well and there's also a guy on audiokarma that sells replacement bulbs for 'vintage' hardware like this.

Sony Str D2010 Manual Free

You have experience with a soldering iron so this should be well within your capabilities.edit: here's the thread about Deoxit. I picked up a 70s era Kenwood receiver at thrift last year and had similar problems with the audio output. Similar to the recommendation above, I removed the hood and gave the pots and switches a Deoxit and fader lube treatment based on some threads over on audiokarma. It's been playing with no problems since. I had a couple of bulbs out as well and there's also a guy on audiokarma that sells replacement bulbs for 'vintage' hardware like this. You have experience with a soldering iron so this should be well within your capabilities.edit: here's the thread about Deoxit.

Click to expand.I haven't tried having two input sources connected at once and I don't recall ever having tried the radio, but it was initially being used exclusively for its AUX input (TV audio out) and my last attempt to use it was with the Phono input only. I'll see what I get from the radio next time I fire it up.My first two steps are probably the 'drop test' Bob outlined to see if it points to a bad solder joint followed by a visual inspection of the solder joints and the Deoxit treatment.

If none of those work, I think we can safely assume one or more components have gone bad. Looking at the specs, the transistor count (vs FET or IC which appear to be in the tuner), might well be a discrete phono section. Meaning you'll see a few 3-leg transistors and several caps, electrolytic, easy to obtain and replace (if you can get to them, they should be easy to replace).

If the noise is in the phono section (and it may even be silk-screened on the board 'PHONO'), it could be a quick job replacing the caps. You could also have a noisy transistor, but caps are always suspect.

But check the selector switch and even the balance control to see if they aren't the noise.Just take care not to lift solder traces off the board or you have to make a repair for that too. Replacement caps can be the same voltage or higher (higher isn't better though) and the same capacity or up to, say double that, for substitutions. Note all polarities with care, take a picture on a phone or whatever. Always take pictures before you start a project like this if you will be changing anything. Looking at the specs, the transistor count (vs FET or IC which appear to be in the tuner), might well be a discrete phono section. Meaning you'll see a few 3-leg transistors and several caps, electrolytic, easy to obtain and replace (if you can get to them, they should be easy to replace). If the noise is in the phono section (and it may even be silk-screened on the board 'PHONO'), it could be a quick job replacing the caps.

You could also have a noisy transistor, but caps are always suspect. But check the selector switch and even the balance control to see if they aren't the noise.Just take care not to lift solder traces off the board or you have to make a repair for that too. Replacement caps can be the same voltage or higher (higher isn't better though) and the same capacity or up to, say double that, for substitutions. Note all polarities with care, take a picture on a phone or whatever. Always take pictures before you start a project like this if you will be changing anything. Click to expand.Yeah, I got a kick out of getting mine back in running order especially since I'd never really done something like this before although I had some soldering experience making RCA cable adaptors for an old Digital Audio Player I had.

With the Goodwill cost and then Deoxit & replacement bulbs, I probably put about $30-$40 into it along with a couple of hours of work. This isn't going to ever be confused with some high end gear but it's cool to look at and takes me back to the days when I was a kid admiring some of the hi-fi's that friends and cousins had. What a question! I just gave my 'dead' Sony STR-6800 SD Receiver that I purchased new in 1978 to a guy who fixes old classic audio equipment. I had tried to sell it, but he just offered to pay UPS charge to ship it across the country.

I gave it to him because I couldn't stand the thought of junking this beauty. If a repair book I came across is any hint, I think it was all discrete transistors, but I'm not a guy who can fix this type of thing if it is more than a simple fuse or an easy solder job. But I digress. The simply answer is KEEP IT. It did have a very nice phono section and it has two phono inputs, so you can use it with two turntables.

Those old amps had plenty of reserve power and were very conservatively rated. If you are handy, maybe you can fix the rest of it some day. And, if you are into FM, it had a wonderful tuner with both a single strength and multi-path indicator. It was great fun to twirl that dial and watch that old indicator slide along the dial. So much more wonderful than today's digital jobs.

If the FM section is working, you should consider using it along with the phono section. As I recall it had an 'external' button so you could send the signals to an external processor, like an equalizer. You could use this and grab the signal before the amp stages, or you could use the tape output.

SpecificationsTuning range: FM, MWPower output: 120 watts per channel into 8Ω (stereo)Surround output: 100W (front), 100W (center), 100W (rear)Frequency response: 10Hz to 50kHzTotal harmonic distortion: 0.15%Input sensitivity: 2.5mV (MM), 250mV (line)Signal to noise ratio: 75dB (MM), 82dB (line)Output: 250mV (line)Speaker load impedance: 4Ω (minimum)Video Connections: compositeDimensions: 430 x 160 x 425mmWeight: 13.1kgAccessories: FM wire antenna, AM loop antenna, remote commander Downloads.